La Fortuna, Costa Rica

The Arenal Volcano, a near-perfect cone that erupted spectacularly from 1968 to 2010, dominates every view. Arenal 1968 and Arenal Volcano National Park both have trails through old lava fields with the cone hanging directly overhead on clear mornings.

La Fortuna Waterfall is the region's signature hike — 500 stairs down into a jungle canyon and a cold pool you can swim in at the base. Two kilometers of cloud-forest zip-lining at Sky Adventures or Ecoglide round out most first-day itineraries.

Hot springs are non-negotiable. Tabacón is the high-end choice with natural riverside pools, Baldí and Paradise have bigger pool complexes with slides, and El Chollín is the locals' free option off a gravel road — bring water shoes.

For dinner in town, Don Rufino is the long-running special-occasion spot for Costa Rican steaks and fish, while Organico Fortuna does creative vegetarian and fresh juices. Soda La Parada, open 24/7 on the central park, is the budget-and-late-night workhorse.

Drive 20 minutes west and you hit Lake Arenal, where small villages like Nuevo Arenal and El Castillo have a much calmer vibe than La Fortuna town. Gingerbread, Toad Hall, and Mystica are all lakeside restaurants worth the drive.

For an off-the-tourist-track afternoon, Río Celeste in Tenorio National Park — about 90 minutes away — has an electric-blue river and a serious hike. Mistico Hanging Bridges is the easier canopy-level alternative closer to town.

La Fortuna is a small, friendly tourist town with very low crime. The biggest safety consideration is mountain driving: the roads from San José, from Monteverde, and around the lake are winding, foggy after dark, and shared with slow trucks. Drive them in daylight whenever possible.

On the trails, watch footing on wet rocks, especially at the waterfall stairs and near Río Celeste. Guided tours are the safest way into any part of the volcano park; independent hiking off the marked trails is not permitted. Wildlife encounters with snakes, spiders, and crocodiles (in some rivers) are rare but real — stay on paths.

La Fortuna town is compact and walkable — the central park, most restaurants, and dozens of tour operators are within a five-block radius. For the volcano park, hot springs, and Lake Arenal, you'll need a rental car, shared shuttle, or organized tour.

Uber does not work in La Fortuna. Local taxis are easy to flag down in town and drivers will usually quote a fixed price to common destinations. Combined shuttle-boat-shuttle transfers to Monteverde (across Lake Arenal) are a popular and scenic option at around $35.

February and March are the best bet for clear views of the volcano and drier trails, making them peak season along with Christmas and Easter. Book hot springs and top tours in advance.

I personally like November and May — rain is real but so is the greenness, prices soften, and the waterfall is at peak flow. If the volcano cooperates for one clear morning of your trip, count yourself lucky.